What it’s really like to cross the Arctic wilderness with a team of huskies. Remembering my time on the 2017 Fjallraven Polar: Days 2-4
My eyes open as I lie in bed, is this all a dream? And I quickly realise, no you are living in reality! And today is the day! So I get up, a spring in my step. I can feel the cool air penetrating the glass of the cabin.
After some breakfast and a briefing, I make my way back to my room and get ready into my new outdoor gear. Today is learning day. How to put up a tent effectively, how to make a fire, how to boil water from snow and most importantly how to use a sled. None of us had done this before and learning something new is always a plus. We were put into teams of 4: 2 countries per team. I was paired with the bodybuilder, a guy called Frank from Hungary who lives in London, who is a big softie. On the other team were the our friends from Germany – Carola and Lena. This would be our team. We were there to support each other through the good and bad and the freezing cold.
After hours of training we were all so tired but happy. Ready to have some warming food and conversations by the fire.
The next day is all systems go. I take a quiet moment to myself. This will be the last time I will be between 4 walls and a shower for the next 6 days. I meet the team, everyone still buzzing from yesterdays energy. We are all ready to go. So we hope onto a bus where we will be taken to the starting line. I could feel the nerves through my body, I felt a little sick but I was ready.
Nothing can prepare you for this first moment …The sound of 200 dogs
The hairs stand up on the back of my neck as the cold air kisses my cheeks and ears. Your senses are heightened and what feels like chaos is a highly organised plan. My team meets our guide and we are introduced to our dogs, who will be with us for the whole adventure. These are now my responsibility. They come first, they are fed first, cleaned up after etc. They are on of the key ways in which I will survive and you can tell from all of the howling and jumping that they are ready.
All that stands between me on the very open road is the snow anchor that keeps the sled in place. Once that is lifted the dogs take off.
As we wait for the final whistle and “Fjallraven 2018 is officially open” its all systems go! One second, you’re standing still, trying to remember how to hold the sled brake and the next, you’re flying across the snow, heart racing, wind in your face, feeling more alive than you ever have.
For a few hours we journeyed from checkpoint A-B, the first day there was a lot of uphill, a lot of running alongside the sled, helping the dogs to push it forward. It was hard work, I was sweating and definitely not eating enough calories. We were all getting the hand of the sled, how it handled with our dogs, how much we should be eating and drinking. By the time we reached the first checkpoint we were all so tired. But it doesn’t stop there. The dogs are taken off sled and into their sleeping area. We had to feed them first and then put up the tents. What didn’t help was the high winds. on top of the very flat tundra. This was very different to the training we had much further down. Once all was complete we could finally settle down, eat some food rations and chat the night away.
The mornings started early, with the wind cutting like a knife, we had to warm up frozen boots and feed and prep the dogs. Gathering the hot water to fill our thermoses before heading off on the next part of the journey. Today was the toughest of days as we we at the highest point and most of the day was a whiteout, i could only see as far as the front of the sled.
Being so high up and in the middle of nowhere really gives your brain the space to think about life. It was nice to focus on the task at hand and be in awe of how stunningly silent the Arctic can be.
No phones. No distractions. Just nature and the incredible bond with our sled dog teams.
It wasn’t always easy. There were moments when the wind cut like a knife, when I fell off the sled and face-planted in snow, when my fingers felt like icicles, even moments where I was tired tired all I could do is cry. But those were the same moments that reminded me: I was capable. I was strong. I was doing this.
This wasn’t just an adventure. It was a reset. A reminder of how beautiful our world is, how little we actually need, and how connected we are when we strip life down to the essentials.
As we came back down to the tree line and thankfully out of the wind, the next checkpoint greeted us, sitting on a frozen lake! We worked as a team to gather ourselves and enjoyed a night, tasting reindeer steaks by the fire, sharing stories, singing happy birthday to fellow participants and enjoying the welcome sight of our first Northern Lights.
Nomadic dani 
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